Walking up to the bar in Manchester’s Port Street Beer House requires an exercise of willpower. The temptation is to cast your eye over the bewildering array of pump-clips, start seeing beer-flavoured stars and just blurt “one of everything!” then just hope your liver (and your wallet) can take it. It just all looks so good.

My top tip: they have three blackboards up on the wall behind the bar: one for their cask ales, two for their draught beers. Focus on one of those boards at a time, and just pick one. Assuming you’re in for a session, you’ll have plenty of time to switch boards later. Try not to worry that you might miss a really good one on another board that runs out just as you come back for your second pint – c’est la vie. Plenty more top-notch beer in the cellar. And for the love of all that’s hoppy, don’t even think about looking at the bottled beer menu, not until you’re settled in with your first of the evening. Quite apart from the fact that some of the prices in there will send you screaming out the door, it’s the start of a slippery slope to decision-making madness.

Of course, I’m a great one for ignoring my own advice, so I usually end up trying (and failing) to take in all the on-board options at once and make some sort of plan for the evening. Which almost never works, especially given my habit of changing my mind six or seven times before I actually get to the bar. Anyhow, here’s where my decision-making process (such as it was) took me last Saturday night:

Magic Rock Dark Arts
I’ve had Dark Arts a couple of times before and for me it’s the dark star of the Magic Rock range. It’s a wonderfully deep-flavoured stout, delivering a big hit of dark chocolate, coffee, charcoal-smoke and toasted nuts, wrapped up in a smooth, satisfying mouth-feel. At 6.0% ABV it’s not a quaffer, and maybe it was a bit adventurous as a session starter, but what the hell, too good to risk missing out on.

Thornbridge Halcyon Imperial IPA
Last year I tried and loved a bottle of the Halcyon 2009 Harvest, so when I saw this one on the board – presumably the new, 2010 Harvest vintage – I jumped at the chance top sample a half on draught. Halcyon is a very, very impressive beer indeed. A 7.4% ABV Imperial IPA, it delivers bucketloads of big, fresh green-hop flavours, topped off with an enticing honey aroma. In the glass and on your tongue, sticky sugars mix and merge with all those sharp, citrus hops in a perfect blend of sharp and sweet. Big flavour, big impact, always a beer that’s worth seeking out. Great stuff.

BrewDog Winter Porter
I fancied something dark and roast-malty again after that big blast of hops and this one leapt off the board at me. Come on though, ‘Winter Porter’ is their Christmas porter with the tinsel taken off, isn’t it? It’s the same blend of dark, smoky roast malt and fruity, spicy notes from a dash of chili, if I remember correctly. Yeah, thought so. Not that I’m complaining, mind. It’s a lovely drop and at 6.0% ABV it packs a satisfying kick as well. Grab the chance to try a drop of this one if you see it anywhere.

Moor Illusion
I wanted to dial down the alcohol content for my next one, so I went for a pint of Moor Illusion, a 4.5% ABV black ale that I’ve enjoyed before. So what went wrong this time? I’m really not sure, but for some reason I was just over-powered by a blast of coffee and hops, lots of coffee, lots of hops and then more coffee and more hops on top. It was very sharp, very dry, with a burnt, charcoal-taste to finish. I was bemused, befuddled and frankly gutted, but I just couldn’t finish it. Bizarre, but true.

Brasserie Lefebvre Barbãr Bok
For my last half pint of the evening I opted for a Belgian beer that I’ve tried and enjoyed in bottled form couple of months ago. Barbãr Bok is a dark ale that’s brewed with honey, which the brewery website says is “from Yucatan in Mexico and is hardly noticeable”. I’d argue that second point, I thought there was a lovely, deep honey tone, that blended well with the Belgian yeast tang and the toasted malt flavours. All in all, a sweet and delicious strong ale that I’d be happy to sit and sip any time.

Good session, all things considered. But then that’s one thing you’re pretty much guaranteed at the Port Street Beer House, whatever you end up choosing.

I picked this one up before last Yule on a scouting trip to check out Delilah Fine Foods, a deli in Nottingham that I pass on the way to the office. Their selection wasn’t too bad at all: mostly European lagers, with Gouden Carolus Triple the pick of the bunch.

I’ve had a couple of other Gouden Carolus beers before now (notably Gouden Carolus Christmas) and enjoyed them both immensely, so I was looking forward to this one. I’m very pleased to say I wasn’t at all disappointed.

The Tripel is a wonderfully rich, complex beer; plenty of hop-sharpness and honey-sweetness marrying in idyllic harmony. There’s a spiciness to the after-taste that dances on the palate and the whole thing is conveyed along by a wonderfully smooth, sensuous mouth-feel that’s just the right side of syrupy.

I’ve been gradually getting to know a few more Belgian beers over the past few years, and I think this is definitely one of the best I’ve tried so far. Highly recommended.