Brewery: Sharp’s
Origin: Rock, Cornwall, England
ABV: 6.8%
Version: 330ml bottle
Source: Sainsbury’s

The neck-label carries celeb-chef Rick Stein’s autograph and the story, according to the back label, is that Rick Stein challenged Sharp’s head brewer Stuart Howe to come up with “an English beer with the character, individuality and quality to stand alongside the Belgian greats”. Mr Howe came up with a strong beer that features “wild Cornish fennel” as the not-so secret ingredient and then named it after Mr Stein’s pet terrier.

And a very nice brew indeed it is, too. It’s a big, bold-tasting beer, with a rich, creamy texture. It’s not at all treacly or sweet – as a lot of the stronger beers I’ve tried have tended to be – and although it’s pretty potent stuff, it is remarkably drinkable. Worryingly drinkable, in fact, so it’s probably a good job they’re selling it in 330ml miser’s portions.

The fennel element might be a little off-putting for some, as the raw vegetable has a strong aniseed flavour which doesn’t always agree with everyone. But in beer form the aniseed seems to have been restricted to the aroma, whereas any lingering flavours are more vanilla-esque in essence.

I’d definitely like to try this one on draft, if it’s available, and as Sharp’s also brew the generally very highly-recommended Doombar, I think the idea of a short holiday in Cornwall has just taken on a whole new level of attractiveness.