…and does – or should – that matter in the slightest to anyone who isn’t a Beer Geek like me?
On Tuesday night my Dad (who was staying with us during a work trip), Jo and I popped out to the Holt’s pub round the corner for a bite to eat. With my meal, I had a pint of the relatively new Holt’s IPA.
Here’s the description from the Joseph Holt’s website:
ABV 3.8% TRADITIONAL IPA
2011 saw the introduction of our IPA, which has proved to be very popular in both Free Trade and the selected Joseph Holt pubs that stock it.
Our IPA is a very pale, traditional, English ale with relatively high bitterness and a fragrant hop aroma. It is brewed with traditional East Kent Goldings and Slovenian Styrian Goldings.
What it turned out to be: a pale gold coloured, pleasant, suppable session ale with a decent body and an almost entirely malt-led flavour*.
What it most definitely wasn’t: an India Pale Ale. Not by any stretch of the imagination.
The 3.8% ABV was an obvious clue. Most IPA’s are around 50% stronger than that, particularly traditional IPAs.** Also, that “relatively high bitterness” (relative to what, I wonder?) was noticeable mainly by its absence, likewise the “fragrant hop aroma”. I could perhaps have forgiven the ‘India’ appellation if the beer had been bursting with dry, bitter hop flavours, but it wasn’t. If anything, it was slightly sweet and, as I mentioned, distinctly malty. Nothing ‘I’ about this ‘PA’ at all I’m afraid.
So: I call ‘Fake IPA’ on this one. And that’s the end of it.
Except it isn’t. Because I have a real problem with ‘Fake’ anything and I’m going to take some time to explain why. (If you’re not interested in a discussion of marketing technique and theory, or just wanted to find out what the new Holt’s beer was like, we’re done; you can click away now.)
Still with me? Right, here’s the thing: I work in the Marketing (capital-M) department; it’s that function within any business or industry that gets the blame for pretty much anything (from production concepts right through to point-of-sale advertising) that the customer doesn’t like, understand or agree with. On the one hand, as a Marketer that can be quite irritating, especially when you know someone completely unconnected with your department is responsible for the decision that’s resulted in criticism. But on the other hand, it’s also perfectly understandable, because as a Marketer (and I’ve said this before) you know that when you’re in business, everything you decide on and everything you do (from production concepts right through to point-of-sale advertising) that’s connected with your business in any way is part of your marketing: literally, the process of bringing a product or service to the market.
That’s because everything you decide and everything you actually do could potentially influence an existing or potential customer’s decision as to whether or not to buy your product. In business, everything is the process of bringing products or services to the market. Everything is marketing, whether or not the Marketing Department is in charge of that particular decision or action.***
Which is why I say that by conceiving, brewing, packaging and selling a Fake IPA, Holt’s – and this applies equally to any other brewery who does the same thing (and there are a number of them) – are guilty of bad marketing, all down the line.
It could be that the beer they’ve brewed is actually exactly the beer they were aiming for: a golden summer ale that’s easy on the eye and easy to drink. Fair enough. But then, if what Brewery X has produced is actually a golden ale, then why not call it “Brewery X’s Golden Ale”? Or even “Brewery X’s Pale Ale”? Why include the ‘India’ element at all?
Maybe the Fake IPA breweries just don’t think it’s all that important. After all, their core market probably won’t be beer geeks like me (with an IPA-chip on their shoulder). Maybe they assume that the majority of regular ale drinkers will be happy enough to give a new beer a go and will hopefully enjoy it, without worrying for a second about what’s on the pump-clip. But that still doesn’t make it right to sell one thing as something else.
Maybe you don’t care either. “So they’ve stuck an ‘I’ on the front of a ‘PA’”, I hear you mutter into your pint. “So what? Why does it matter?”
To my mind: the best-case scenario is that all these breweries have done is recognise and respond to a perceived increase in market demand for IPAs – possibly inspired by International IPA Day earlier this year – by putting an IPA of their own onto the market. But then – for whatever reason – they’re missed the point of what makes an IPA an IPA and as a result, rather than attempt to create a genuinely remarkable mid-to-high strength beer with an impressive hop-profile, they’ve just applied their target buzz-words (“traditional”, “IPA”, “high bitterness”) to a product that meets none of those criteria and in truth is something else instead.
And of course, the worst-case scenario is that these breweries know exactly what they’re doing and have make a deliberate attempt to mislead their customers – beer geeks and regular ale drinkers alike – into buying a product that simply isn’t what it claims to be. In the worst-case scenario, Breweries who put out a Fake IPA are, in effect, passing-off a golden / pale ale as something else entirely. That’s false advertising. That’s mis-selling. And by either hoping or assuming that nobody important will notice or care they’re showing a certain amount of contempt for their own customers as well.
Then again, all that said and seeing as it’s the weekend and all, I’m going to give them all the benefit of the doubt and assume that the former scenario is the more common one. Even so it’s still a particularly dumb form of Bad Marketing, because Bad Marketing via Bad Branding has to be one of the most essential mistakes any business can make.
Marketing as a whole (remember: everything a business does) ought to be about putting a product out into the market that is genuinely, authentically the very best example of its type that it can be (based on the criteria you choose to compete on) and then standing behind that product and proudly saying: “We made this. We believe in it. We want you to enjoy it and talk about it and recommend it to others. This is our product and we’re damned proud of it.” Because let’s face it, in this day and age to do anything else – with so many alternatives to be had and so much more information available quite literally at your fingertips via the mobile Internet – is just a pointless waste of time.
That’s why Branding – sending clear and obvious signals about your product’s quality and desirability to potential consumers – ought to be about so much more than just putting an keyword-stuffed name to a product, in an attempt to catch the wave of current trend or popular opinion. And why starting the branding process off with a deception – even one that only a small (but fanatical and vociferous) segment of your market is even likely to notice, never mind care about – is an inherent flaw that’s always going to be pretty much impossible to overcome. Bad branding is bad marketing writ large for all to see.
So to flip my earlier question: what’s right with calling a Pale Ale a Pale Ale and having done with it?
Firstly, regular punters will most likely be happier because it’s pretty obvious what a Golden Ale is supposed to be and they can choose to try it knowing pretty much what to expect. Secondly, beer geeks and can likewise sample a new Golden Ale knowing that’s exactly what they’re sampling. They won’t have their false-hopes raised so they’ll have nothing to complain about and won’t end up spouting rants on their blogs about an otherwise perfectly pleasant beer that only fails on the grounds that it doesn’t do what it says on the pump-clip / website; because it doesn’t meet up to the weight of expectation created by that use of the seemingly innocuous ‘I’.
One last thought: maybe in the case of Holt’s (and again, any other Fake-IPA brewers likewise) it truly, genuinely doesn’t matter. Maybe they’re just not at all interested in brewing remarkable beers; the sort of beers that beer geeks will rave about online and plead with the likes of the Port Street Beer House or Mr Foley’s or The Euston Tap to stock up on. Maybe these brewers actually know their market pretty well and know for a fact that all their market demands is safe, familiar, unchallenging beers that are a reasonable strength and a reasonable price, whatever the heck the brewery decides to call them and that’s just the end of it, Beer Geeks be damned.
In which case: fair enough. They all can (and no doubt will) ignore every word of the above and just carry on regardless. But I still say that putting a Fake IPA onto the market is a misleading and deceitful act of false advertising. That’s still a Bad Thing in my book and it always will be. And I still say it’s a huge shame when any brewer – any company – chooses the lazy path of Bad Marketing rather than trying to create something impressive, something authentic, something truly remarkable, instead.
Then again, what do I know? I’m just a Beer Geek.
I’d definitely like to hear what you think, whether you’re a fellow beer geek, a regular pub punter, a brewer, a marketer, or none of the above. Hit me up via the Comments below, if you feel so inclined…